|
|
|
|
The Beauty, Charm and Warmth of hardwood flooring has been has been a favorite of both architects and homeowners for centuries. There is simply no other building material with the same warmth and durability of natural wood. Launstein has grown to become North America's leading manufacturer and distributor of 3/8", 5/8" and 3/4" Solid and Engineered Flooring.
Launstein Hardwood Floors makes it easy to bring this classic look to your home. We manufacture our own flooring (unlike most flooring distributors), by ordering direct from Launstein you get a quality and price not available to you anywhere else. Whether you need a simple hard wood floor or want to recreate a specific texture and feel, we are the experts in delivering exactly what you need. We have thousands of satisfied clients to prove it. Our expertise in the industry will be apparent when you contact us. We pride ourselves in providing the highest standard in customer service. Any questions you have will be answered quickly and efficiently. Our expertise and knowledge is available to all of our clients, we can suggest the best way to install our Hard Wood Floors, which species are best for high traffic areas, show you how to choose the perfect surface for your Kitchen or Bathroom, and even match an existing floor you need replaced. We were the first in the industry to create a standard for hardwood flooring over radiant heat, our testing and certification has influenced every other flooring manufacturer in the industry. When choosing a Launstein Floor you not only get the floor of your dreams, you also get the industry expertise and customer service you deserve. For more information on types and benefits of hardwoods click here. 
|
|
Herring Bone in White Oak
by Pelch Wood Floors of Okemos, MI
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Engineered Hardwood floors with it’s multiple layers of woods tend to be resistant to moisture and more stable then a solid wood floor. While no wood floor product can tolerate standing water, the increased moisture levels are not a problem. These floors are preferred when using wide plank or are installed over radiant heat.
The key to this increased stability and moisture tolerance comes from how an engineered floor is made. Launstein floors range from 5/8” to 3/4” thick with the top layer being your wood of choice. The 5/8” wood floor is a popular one for use on radiant heat, because it is thinner and less resistant to heat transfer.. |
|
There are 2 different types of milled Flooring types available at Launstein. Plainsawn, and Quartersawn floors each has a unique look and different benefits.
Plainsawn (or Flatsawn) is the 'most cost effective way to mill lumber. The cut of the wood is flat, straight across which leaves very little waste. A Plainsawn plank will show a Cathedral pattern in the grain of the board. A Quartersawn Plank is milled by quartering the log, then cutting each quarter straight through. There are a lot of benefits milling a log this way. This type of wood plank is very sturdy, doesn't move much when used as flooring and is very moisture resistant. Quartersawn Flooring will exhibit s straight grain pattern. |
|
|
Acclimation & Preparation
Even though our wood is kiln-dried to 6%, seasonal changes will continue to vary the moisture content. The flooring should not be exposed to excessive humidity and moist conditions. The moisture content of the subfloor and the new wood flooring should not vary by more than 2-3%. Particle board of any thickness is not recommended for the subfloor. Bring the product and the surrounding atmosphere to a mid 60 degree temperature for a week and make sure the environmental humidity is kept at mid 38-42% before, during and after installation. Installation for 3/8" Launstein Floors Our 3/8" products should be installed on plywood, being 10% moisture content or less. OSB should be covered with ¼" Lauan underlayment, stapling every 6 inches. The subfloor must be free from all drywall or glue residue from previous floors, if in doubt cover with Lauan. It is extremely important that the floor surface be clean and dry. Begin by undercutting all door casings and jambs. Start on the longest outside wall and snap a chalk line to serve as your straight edge for the first row of planks. Select your straightest planks. Apply a ¼" bead of approved construction adhesive in an “S” pattern along the back of the plank. Place your board tongue side out, leaving a ¼" space along the wall. Holding the nailer at a 45 degree angle, nail the tongue edge every 4" with an 18 gauge pin nailer (face nail the starter row along the walls, base shoe will cover this later). Select the second row, making sure that the end joints are staggered. Glue the back of the piece and place the board as before. Using a block of wood and a hammer gently tap the edge of the board so the groove slides over the tongue and is snug, do this also on the end. Continue installing each new row as previously mentioned, making sure to glue, tap snug and nail every 4". Talk to a radiant tech at Launstein’s before nailing over a radiant heat system. Installation for Launstein ¾" Engineered and Solid Floors This is a traditional nail down application, however, anything over 7 ½" should also be glued with our recommended solvent based construction adhesive. A light sanding is needed after installation. Installation procedures can be found on the National Wood Flooring Association website. Finishing On-site Presanded, micro beveled flooring will still need a mild sanding before finishing to remove scuffs, etc. Square edge flooring will require additional sanding. After sanding, vacuum thoroughly. Allow the dust to settle and wipe down to remove the fine dust. If using an oil based polyurethane three coats of finish will be needed. Pour the material into a paint tray and spread the finish onto the floor down the length of the board using a pulling motion. Repeat the mild sanding and clean up before the second and third coat. Remember that part of having a smooth final product depends on having a clean surface before applying the finish. |
|
|
(2) Select a few starter planks that perfectly straight. Apply a 1/4" wide bead of our recommended construction adhesive in a running "S" pattern along the full length of the underside of the plank. With the chalkline as your reference, place the first board with the groove edge toward the wall. Be sure to leave 1/8" to 1/4" space against all walls. This gap will later be covered by base or shoe molding.
|
|
|
(3) Nail the groove edge to the subfloor with the pneumatic pin nailer, being sure to keep downward pressure on the plank with your free hand as you work. Nail should be spaced about every three to four inches. (NOTE: Only the starter row is nailed along the groove edge.) Finish installing the first row in this manner, making sure that the end joints are fully seated as you progress.
|
|
|
(4) When the first row is complete, select planks for the second row. Here, and as you work your way across the room, stagger the end joints as much as possible so they will be evenly distributed throughout the finished floor. The varying lengths supplied in each bundle will simplify this.
|
|
|
(5) Glue the boards of the second row and set them with the groove edge along the previously nailed tongue edge.
|
|
|
(6) Tap each new board into place with a hammer and block of wood so that the tongue and groove edges are snug. (Note: Never strike the plank directly with the hammer as this can damage the tongue) (7) Continue installing each new row. Glue, tap snug, nail tongued edge every three to four inches. In some cases, such as bay window or closet areas, it may be necessary to reverse directions or back-fill an area. In that case you will be installing a groove against a groove and will need to use a spline. Glue the spline into the groove, this will transform the groove into a tongue. You can then continue installing as usual. |
|