How to Install Your Launstein Floor

A Launstein hardwood floor can be easily installed by the do-it-yourselfer. Professional looking results can be achieved by following these simple procedures.

Acclimation
After your flooring material is delivered it is important that the wood be allowed to acclimate for at least 72 hours prior to installation. This is the time needed for the planks to adapt to the temperature and moisture content of their new environment.

Wood is an organic substance composed of microscopic, strawlike fibers called cellulose. Depending on atmospheric conditions, these fibers will either gain or expel moisture, thus affecting the crossgrain dimension of the lumber. To help control this effect, Launstein kiln-dries all of its rough-cut lumber to about 6% moisture content before further manufacturing processes begin. Even then, seasonal changes will continue to vary the wood's moisture content. In the midwest, for example, this can range from 3% in the winter to as high as 15% in the summer months. This constant process of adapting is part of what gives wood its personality--and what makes it so appealing.

Your Launstein floor is specially designed to accommodate dimensional changes, but for this to work it is necessary for the existing subfloor and the new planks be the same temperature at the time of installation.

To acclimate your flooring material, simply stack the bundles in the area of installation in a way that they will be protected from draft and moisture.

Then remove the plastic wrapping, but leave the bands intact. Permanent heat above 60 degrees Fahrenheit should be available to both floor and subfloor during this time of acclimation. Special requirements are needed to install wood flooring in unheated or temporarily heated areas.

Preparation of Subfloor
For optimum results, Launstein's 3/8" flooring should be installed over a 3/4" plywood (min.) subfloor. Double floor systems of 1/2" and 5/8" plywood or 3/4" tongue and groove decking are also acceptable subflooring. Oriented strand board or particle board subflooring should be first covered with underlayment such as 1/4" lauan or similar plywood.

The subfloor must be free from all contaminants such as drywall dust or glue residue from previous floors. Also, it must be 10% moisture content or less.

It is possible to install a wood floor over existing vinyl or tile floors under certain conditions. The old flooring can be no more than 1/8" thick and must be securely bonded to a plywood subfloor. To test the bond, use a suitable construction adhesive to glue a new plank to the old floor. Wait at least 48 hours, then remove. It should be fairly difficult to remove and there should be near even distribution of glue residue on both the floor and the board.

If you are in doubt about the condition of the subfloor, apply a 1/4" underlayment of lauan or plywood, nailing or stapling every 6" overall.

Installation It is extremely important that the floor surface is absolutely clean and dry. If necessary, vacuum or sweep area frequently as you work. Begin by undercutting all door casings, jambs, etc. for the new planks to fit under. A short length of planking can serve as a marking guide for cutting. (1) When possible, start the installation along the longest outside wall. If measuring proves the room to be unsquare, as most are, you will need to adjust accordingly and snap a chalkline near the wall. This line will serve as a straight guide for the first row of planks. (2) Select a few starter planks that perfectly straight. Apply a 1/4" wide bead of our recommended construction adhesive in a running "S" pattern along the full length of the underside of the plank. With the chalkline as your reference, place the first board with the groove edge toward the wall. Be sure to leave 1/8" to 1/4" space against all walls. This gap will later be covered by base or shoe molding. (3) Nail the groove edge to the subfloor with the pneumatic pin nailer, being sure to keep downward pressure on the plank with your free hand as you work. Nail should be spaced about every three to four inches. (NOTE: Only the starter row is nailed along the groove edge.) Finish installing the first row in this manner, making sure that the end joints are fully seated as you progress. Now hold the nailer at a 45 degree angle so that the tip rests firmly in the trough created by the tongue and the upper edge of the plank. (see photo) Nail the full length of the row through the tongue at this angle, placing nails every three to four inches apart. (4) When the first row is complete, select planks for the second row. Here, and as you work your way across the room, stagger the end joints as much as possible so they will be evenly distributed throughout the finished floor. The varying lengths supplied in each bundle will simplify this. (5) Glue the boards of the second row and set them with the groove edge along the previously nailed tongue edge. (6) Tap each new board into place with a hammer and block of wood so that the tongue and groove edges are snug. (Note: Never strike the plank directly with the hammer as this can damage the tongue) (7) Continue installing each new row. Glue, tap snug, nail tongued edge every three to four inches. In some cases, such as bay window or closet areas, it may be necessary to reverse directions or back-fill an area. In that case you will be installing a groove against a groove and will need to use a spline. Glue the spline into the groove, this will transform the groove into a tongue. You can then continue installing as usual.

Special situations
RADIANT HEAT: There are many different systems and likewise many different installation procedures.
Please see our Radiant Heat Pages.

CONCRETE: Please call our store for special instructions when installing wood flooring over concrete. Contact information

Finishing
Launstein's 3/8" flooring comes pre-sanded and is suitable for finishing right out of the package. If desired, a finer finish can be achieved by using an oscillating sander or drywall pad.

Thoroughly vacuum dust from the floor and baseboards. Allow dust in the air to settle, then revacuum. A tack cloth can also be used. If a stained finish is desired, apply at this time according to the manufacturer's directions.

To apply polyurethane, pour the material into a paint pan, then spread it onto the floor with a paint pad using a mopping motion. If the dried finish seems rough, it can be lightly sanded between the first and second coats.

Protection
Protectors for chair legs are highly recommended to help prevent marring the finish. Always use caution when moving furniture or appliances over your new floor.

Want more information on Launstein's products and pricing? Contact information can be found by following this link.